43'ish... Okay, mea culpa...I've been harboring a number of photos on my iPhone from the summer on the various steps I've taken to get the engine back in the car and reassembled. And then my phone died...sorry to say I've lost all of them. A thousand apologies since there were a few key steps I wanted to illustrate. Overall, the install was in reverse order. There were a couple of things I jury rigged I was hoping to illustrate however that I'll describe below with some new pic's where I can:

Clutch alignment - I decided to use the old clutch disc as it appeared newer and still had about 35 mm of material above the rivet head. I could not buy an alignment tool separately in town and didn't want to wait for an online order so I found a piece of 1 inch soft wood dowel in my scrap wood pile to use as alignment tool. I gently pounded the dowel with a mallet into the spline gear on the clutch place until it engaged the flywheel and then bolted it onto the flywheel. Then I flexed the dowel slightly up and down and worked it out of the spline gear. It worked perfectly as the spline on the transmission slid home after a couple attempts.

Driver side drive shaft - I scratched my head over this one while reading through the posts on TN on how to reinstall it. The challenge is the clip on the end of the shaft that has to overcome a spring inside the transmission to get it to drive home. It's virtually impossible to apply any force from the shaft by pushing it or using a mallet. Following photo's illustrate what I did. Since I snapped these after the fact, they are just for illustration purposes as the axle is already installed:

I started on top by slipping a crowbar down between the shift linkage on the tranny. Below are before and after shots so you can see where the bar was placed for leverage.

On the shaft, I spun the clip on the end of the spline gear so the split in the clip was at 6 o'clock (per instructions from other post). I carefully inserted the spline of the shaft into the transmission, taking care not to rub against the new seal so not to damage it. I then placed the blade end of the crowbar against the notch on the shaft. Using the leverage against the linkage, I pulled the top of the crowbar towards me. The blade against the notch on the shaft slipped a couple of times but once I was able to get it seated well, it popped the shaft home with ease. Not much force was required. Photo below shows where the blade goes against the shaft, taken from the outboard side of the shaft. Because this was taken after the fact, there is a protection shield on top of the shaft in the picture that was removed when I did the procedure, which allowed the blad to seat against the top of the shaft. Hope it makes sense:

Engine in car - The last photo for this post is the engine in the car. It's tough to appreciate how much cleaner it is than when we pulled it. If you look at some of older posts, this thing was a greasepit from all the leaking gaskets and blown seals. The steering rack appears to be leaking and I'll probably hold off on that until I know the engine is working and we get this baby on the road.

Photo's below are for a bracket that I've forgotten where it goes. The second photo is for the passenger half-shaft. I thought the bracket attaches to the shaft bearing housing but I can't seem to figure out how. Any thoughts?

Engine cross members go back in today. Promise I'll get back on track with uploading as I go. This last summer and fall have been crazy busy so it was hard to stay on top of it.